Cashmere Grading: What Grade A, B, and C Actually Mean
Cashmere grading (A, B, C) is based on fiber diameter and length, with Grade A representing the finest, longest fibers typically sourced from the neck and belly of the goat.
Cashmere grading is one of those things that sounds official but isn't, strictly speaking, an officially regulated certification the way a Super number is. It's an industry-standard classification — widely used, generally consistent in its logic, but with figures that vary a little depending on which source you check. Even without a single global authority behind it, the vocabulary is genuinely useful, and once you know it, you'll understand exactly why two "100% cashmere" garments can feel worlds apart.
Grade A — The Finest, Longest Fiber
Grade A sits at the top, generally in the range of roughly 14 to 16 microns, with the longest staple length of the three grades — typically over 34mm. It's sourced from the softest, most protected part of the goat's undercoat, usually around the neck and belly, where the animal needs the most insulation and grows its finest hair. That combination of fineness and length is what gives Grade A cashmere its signature: exceptionally soft, resistant to pilling given how strong long fibers are relative to short ones, and light enough to feel almost weightless while still keeping you warm.
Grade B and Grade C — Coarser, Shorter, More Practical
Grade B typically falls around 16 to 19 microns, with a shorter staple length, usually sourced from the goat's back and sides rather than the neck and belly. It's still genuinely soft and warm — most cashmere sweaters on the market are Grade B, and most people can't tell the difference from Grade A on first touch. The gap becomes more obvious after repeated wear and washing, where Grade A's longer fibers hold their shape better.
Grade C runs coarser still, generally above 19 microns, with the shortest staple length of the three, often sourced from the legs and tail. It's noticeably less soft, more prone to pilling, and the most affordable of the three grades. There's nothing dishonest about Grade C cashmere existing — it has its place in heavier, more affordable goods — but it's worth knowing you're buying it rather than assuming all cashmere behaves the same.
100% Cashmere ≠ Grade A
This is the confusion that trips up more buyers than anything else in this category. "100% cashmere" describes fiber content — it tells you the garment contains no wool, no synthetic filler, nothing but cashmere fiber. It says nothing about grade. A garment can be genuinely, honestly 100% cashmere and still be Grade C — coarse, short-fibered, prone to pilling — because purity and fineness are two entirely separate measurements. Purity is about what's in it. Grade is about how good what's in it actually is.
How to Judge It Yourself
The fastest real-world test is the touch test, done on sensitive skin — the inside of your wrist or the side of your neck, not your palm, which is naturally less sensitive. Genuine Grade A should feel smooth with no prickling. Any scratchiness is a sign the fiber is coarser than the label's grade language might suggest. Weight is a secondary clue: fine, long-fiber cashmere tends to feel remarkably light for how warm it is, since insulation comes from trapped air in a well-constructed yarn as much as from fiber thickness. And if you're buying in any real volume — tailors and serious collectors both — it's entirely reasonable to ask a supplier for the actual micron and staple-length figures behind their grading claim, the same way you would with wool.
Cashmere Grades at a Glance
| Grade | Approx. micron | Approx. length | Typical source area | Feel |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | ~14–16 | 34mm+ | Neck, belly | Exceptionally soft, resists pilling |
| B | ~16–19 | Shorter | Back, sides | Soft, warm, good everyday quality |
| C | 19+ | Shortest | Legs, tail | Coarser, more prone to pilling |
Understanding grading doesn't just make you a more careful shopper — it changes what the price tag actually means to you. A more expensive cashmere piece isn't just "more expensive cashmere." It's a specific claim about fiber fineness and length that you now know how to check.
FAQ
Does 100% cashmere mean it's Grade A? No. "100% cashmere" refers to fiber content — the garment contains no other fiber — while grade refers to the fineness and length of that cashmere fiber. The two are separate measurements, and a garment can be 100% cashmere at any grade.
Why is Grade A cashmere more expensive? Grade A fiber is finer, longer, and comes from a smaller portion of the goat's coat, which means it's harvested in smaller quantities and requires more careful sorting. That combination of scarcity and processing effort drives the higher cost.
By Daniel Hui, Founder, Yoo's Club
